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Friday, April 1, 2011

Trekking Mafia

Marc, our friend JP and I planned to climb a volcano in Bali. We only had time for a little escapade so we picked Gunung Batur, where ascension takes a couple of hours. Moreover, unlike other volcanoes, climbing Gunung Batur during the day is allowed without a guide. Just to be sure, we confirmed it on the official internet website and with a tourist police officer starting our ascension.

We had to drive on our scooters a little bit before arriving at the beginning of the trail. On the way, as we had expected, a lot of local guides offered us their services but we declined them all.

The last guy we refused insisted more then the others. When we said firmly that we were not interested in his services, we pretty soon realized that he and his friend were following us on their motorbikes. They got in front of us and then blocked the way. Marc asked them to move so we can pass. They answered that if we go any further without hiring them, we would regret it.

Marc got very upset about the situation and that's when a verbal argument started. The guides were claiming they worked for the government and required an equivalent of 35 CAN per person (an astronomical sum in Indonesia) to make the two-hour trek with us. We  insisted that we don't need to hire their services. They in turn suggested that we might not find our scooters when we go back down. Or, alternatively, that we would have to fight our way through them.

At some point one of the guides advanced his bike and ran over JP's foot. This was too much for our friend. He pushed the guy off the motorbike and they started fighting. When the other guide grabbed JP as well Marc had no choice but to help out JP.

Some of the villagers must have called the police because suddenly two policemen arrived and ended the fight. The "guides" talked with the policemen for over two minutes. The result: Marc and JP were fined an equivalent of 100 CAN for starting a fight!

So if you think about climbing mountains in Indonesia, one word of caution - beware of the trekking mafia!



3 comments:

  1. Oh my dear! This is horrible! Reminds me of our experience in Vietnam where we were threatened to - if we didn't pay for a minibus ticket (which we had already, so if we didn't pay AGAIN) - they would kick us off the bus between towns, in the middle of nowhere or throw away our backpacks along the way. Your story may be a good one to write about to guidebook publishers (Lonely Planet etc.)

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  2. OMG.. it's hard to be a tourist sometimes.. with everybody wanting to squeeze the money out of you.. even the policemen.. who maybe shared the sum with the "mafia" guys.. In the end, good that it "only" cost money..
    Hühnchen

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