Tiwanaku - the South American Stonehenge

About 71km from La Paz, on a plain close to Lake Titicaca, lie some of the most mysterious and interesting ruins I have seen during this trip. The ruins attest to the presence of a highly developed pre-Inca civilization that lived in the Bolivian Altiplano. All scholars agree on this. However, little agreement has been reached regarding many other particulars regarding this civilization.

When the Incas first stumbled upon the city of Tiwanaku (it was already abandoned by then), they decided that their gods, born in a nearby Lake Titicaca, created this place. According to the legend, the Gods were dissatisfied with their creation so they destroyed it and created the Inca civilization instead.

When the Spaniards first discovered the city, they concluded that it was an abandoned pilgrimage site of some old civilization. They simply couldn't believe that a city could exist in such a dry, cold climate over 3900 meters above sea level. They destroyed most of the ruins because, well, the Spaniards believed that pagan worshiping had no place in a Christian universe. The finely carved stone blocks were removed from the ancient constructions and used to build a local church and houses, and some of the stones even found their way in the cathedral of La Paz. Most of the artistically appealing artifacts were looted over the centuries.

In late 19th and 20th century serious archeological research began but it brought more questions than answers. The carbon dating of organic remains found on the stones suggests that the main structures were built around 1500 years ago. This is the leading theory regarding Tiwanaku today (supported by so-called “orthodox” archeologists). However, several archaeologists (“romantic” archeologists) argue that carbon dating may not be a determining argument. One of the monuments, the gate of the sun, has a kind of astronomical calendar carved on it. By deciphering the symbols of the calendar, some astronomers concluded that it reflected the astronomical conditions of over 12000 years ago! This would make the Tiwanaku civilization the oldest in the world.

There is also no agreement as to the reasons for the sudden collapse of the civilization. The "orthodox" archaeologists believe that a drought happened sometimes around 1000 ad, which caused food shortages and, consequently, the collapse of the civilization. The "romantic" archaeologists claim that it was a massive flood, the description of which appears in many traditions (recall Noah's Arc). The two main arguments supporting this theory are the findings of fossilized marine life all over the area, and the fact that about 90% of Tiwanaku ruins still remain about two meters underground waiting to be excavated.

While the orthodox archaeologists still argue with the romantics, Bolivia adopted a happy mix of both theories, which is interesting, if quite incoherent. The Tiwanaku people are thus proclaimed as the fathers of the Inca, which gives Bolivia a strategic advantage over Peru. Thousands of school kids are brought to visit the site every day. Guides give explanations about the history and symbols of Tiwanaku as if their meaning had been proven beyond a doubt. Surprisingly, among the crowds of Bolivian groups I could only spot a handful of international tourists. For some reason, the great mystery of Tiwanaku civilization evokes much less interest than Nazka or Stonehenge.

The reason for this lack of international interest might be the fact that the site of Tiwanaku was first partially destroyed by zealous Conquistadors and then progressively looted for hundreds of years. Nowadays, one needs some imagination to appreciate the size of the ancient city. But I must admit that even in the present state, the ruins impressed me more than any Inca site I have seen in Argentina, Chile or Bolivia.

Some walls of the former temples remain intact and are a visible proof that Tiwanaku masonry was at least as advanced as that of the Incas. Huge stones are shaped in perfect squares and fitted using iron keys. They are placed so tight, that in some places it is impossible to fit a match between two stones. One temple is adorned with carvings of dozens of heads, each different from the others. There are several giant humanoid monuments, also richly adorned in carvings, the meaning of which has been lost. And, finally, there is the gate of the Sun, on which the astronomical calendar was carved. While there are arguments about the interpretation of it, none disputes its aesthetical value.

Most archaeologists agree that the Tiwanaku civilization flourished between 700ad and 1000ad, that its power extended over Lake Titicaca and in its immediate region, and in parts of Bolivia, Peru and Chile. It was a hierarchical society with a religious and political centre in the city of Tiwanaku, inhabited by between 50,000 and 250,000 people. Tiwanaku possessed a very advanced knowledge of astronomy and descriptive geometry. They practiced very ingenious and efficient agriculture techniques, and they produced beautiful ceramics, sculptures and stone carvings.

Beware, Peru! Inca constructions in the Sacred Valley will not impress me easily now that I have seen what the Pre-Inca Tiwanaku civilization was able to accomplish!