The End

Well this has been a fantastic year for us. We have traveled to many exciting destinations and hopefully this blog has been useful in sharing our thoughts and emotions with you.

Now that we are back to our old lives, it is time to reconnect with loved ones and friends. We’ve met some great people this year and we sincerely hope we can keep in close touch with them. To our readers from France, Oman, Indonesia, Argentina, etc, our door in Ottawa is open for you.

That’s it for now. Thanks for having followed our adventures.

Final wrap-up - Ania`s version

I wanted to prepare a similar ranking to what Marc has published. But I found it too hard to compare places that I loved (or hated) for so many different reasons. So instead, I decided to name my favorites in different categories. I can already see where Marc will disagree :)

Best city: I think I will go with San Francisco – I liked the look of the city, I loved strolling through all the different districts, I appreciated the balance between the high-rise, big-city feel and nature in numerous parks. And, of course, I adored the food!

The close second place I would give to Hong Kong. I wouldn’t like to live there but it was incredible to experience the liveliness of the city (especially by night) or to visit some of its electronic markets. The huge sky scrapers and all the lights in the night and all the traffic – it all left me very impressed, if slightly dizzy.

I would have added Buenos Aires at the third place but unfortunately my memories from this places are skewed – first Marc and I got really, really sick (no heating anywhere) and when we got better, our backpack was stolen. I might like Buenos Aires but, obviously, Buenos Aires doesn’t like me :)

Best for trekking: Hawaii will take the first place in this category. Hiking around huge volcano craters was absolutely out of this world. And if one is fed up with dry lunar landscapes, there are plenty of trails leading along lush greenery as well. It’s a great place for half a day walk, as well as a multi-day trekking experience.

Philippines also deserve a special mention – the few days Marc and I spent in the village of Batad, hiking around rice terraces, were absolutely magical.

Best for interpersonal experience: Definitely, absolutely the first place goes to Oman!!! My time in Oman certainly changed my way of seeing this part of the world. The warmth of the people is unparalleled to any other country I have ever visited in my life. And I made friends there with whom I sincerely hope to stay in touch for a long time. Of course, there are a number of cultural issues on which I will probably never agree with my Omani friends.

While there is no other destination comparable to Oman, I would like nevertheless to give the second place to Indonesia (but NOT Bali). I was shocked by the openness of the people of Java, their sincere interest in the world beyond Indonesia, their enthusiasm in learning foreign languages and their hunger to learn more about other countries.

Best for landscapes/natural wonders: Definitely Bolivia. This country has a variety of different but equally stunning landscapes that is unequal to any other place I have seen; Salt lakes, red lakes with pink flamingos, stunning mountains, and the Amazon jungle with one of the richest biodiversity in the world.

The second place I would give to Argentina for the most beautiful glacier I have ever seen (Perito Moreno), and the northern part with beautiful rock formations.

Argentina shares the second place with Australia for the Great Barrier Reef and magical places hidden in the desert such as Karijini Park or Uluru.

Best monument/human-made landmark: this is hard to decide but I think the most impressive for me was the Buddhist temple Borobudur in Indonesia. It was built in the 7^th century, then forgotten for ages and ages, until it was re-discovered in the 20^th century. It is impressive enough to constitute a sole reason to visit Java Island, even if one is not interested in anything else the island has to offer.

The second best thing might be the twin towers in Kuala Lumpur. Overall, I wasn’t too much impressed with Malaysia and I would go somewhere else (i.e. Singapore or Hong Kong) to admire contemporary architecture. But I must admit, the Kuala Lumpur towers are impressive because of their grandeur and because of the architecture. It’s a beautiful mix of contemporary high-rise architecture and traditional Arabian patterns and motives. Definitely worth seeing.

Best to kick back and relax: definitely Fiji, no question about it. Fantastic people, beautiful islands and nothing to distract me: no big mountains to climb, no famous ruins to visit – one can just lay down and admire the surroundings without feeling guilty :).

Southern Thailand will take the second place in this category. The beaches are very picturesque with dramatic rock formations around them, the coral is reasonably healthy, and for all the nice places in the northern part of the country, there is nothing incredible enough to see that one would want to sacrifice an extra day or two of enjoyment on the beach.

Places I want to visit again, as soon as possible: Oman, The Philippines, Hawaii, Indonesia (NOT Bali)

Places I don’t think I will be coming back to: Bali, New Zealand, Malaysia, Thailand (for the last three places, it is not that I didn’t like them. I simply saw enough to feel satisfied about them and ready to move on)

Well, this is about it. This was my last post in the blog. I can’t honestly say that I will miss writing my posts (especially with so many other things to do around the world…) but I must admit I’m nostalgic. This means that there will be no more exciting places to describe and adventures to relate. Well, I can always re-live last year by reading the blog. Or, I can bore my friends to death with endless stories from the trip - Beware!

Final Wrap-up - Marc`s version

We finally made it to Ottawa a few days ago. There was a snowstorm in Newark which delayed our arrival. To make a long story short, we missed our connection from Newark to Ottawa on Saturday. Instead of landing in Newark, we landed in Philadelphia and had to bus to Newark. We lined up in front of the Continental office from, get this, 3:30 AM until 11:00 Am. It took us more than 7 hours to be able to talk to an agent. This was an absolute debacle. Well anyway, we made it safely back home.

As I promised, here is my ranking of the destinations we visited this year :

1 = Oman

Pros: The weather, the people, the landscapes, the sultan, and pretty everything else in the country. That’s the one destination you want to visit ASAP before mass tourism catches on this gem.

Cons: Well, if you are ideologically against visiting a Muslim country, then well, avoid Oman. So that means local women take the back seat when it comes to enjoying life outside. Also, Oman gets boiling hot in summer and there is not much to do during the siesta.

2 = Australia

Pros: Ahh, Australia. Great diversity of landscapes with some of the most stunning beaches, canyons, and gorges in the world. Fossicking for precious stones! Our friend Marty!

Cons: Horribly expensive: food, hostels, gas, everything is expensive. Australians treat Aborigines poorly.

3 = Hawaii (United States)

Pros: Stunning landscapes for such small islands. Terrific trekking options. The beach is gorgeous and the waves fantastic (but not in winter – see my post on the subject). The astronomy centre and Volcano Park on Big Island are unique attractions. DO NOT MISS.

Cons: Not much in that department. Maybe the flights between the islands could be cheaper. Also it is a bit hard to find hostels, and the placement for road signs is terrible.

4 = Fiji

Pros: Such nice locals! They really enjoy talking to strangers. Stunning islands and stunning snorkeling. Cheap.

Cons: Some resorts are poor quality. Not much to see outside of the beach. Nadi isn’t great.

5 = Bolivia

Pros: One of the most diverse countries we’ve seen this year: it has jungle, mountains, deserts, you name it! The town of Sucre.

Cons: Quechua people are not very warm to strangers. Food served in restaurants revolve around fried chicken and French fries. Garbage is everywhere as there is no environmental awareness whatsoever. Bolivia would rank higher if it wasn’t for the terrible state of the environment.

6 = Hong Kong

Pros: Incredible show of lights. Hong Kong by night is breathtaking and vibrant. Cheap food, cheap beer, cheap wine. The best place in the world to buy electronic gadgets – at a discout.

Cons: Space is an issue, so hotel rooms are minuscule. Lots of restaurants have menus written only in Chinese.

7 = Singapore

Pros: Singapore is a island of order and cleanliness in chaotic and polluted South-East Asia. So refreshing! Marina Bay Sands resort!

Cons: Singapore is not an exciting destination. The city won’t hesitate to can your behind if you drink coke in a subway or spit on the floor.

8 = Philippines

Pros: Best trekking in South-East Asia. Filipinos are very nice, franc, and direct.

Cons: Manila is terribly poor and overcrowded.

9 = Chile

Pros: The most well-organized country in South America. The amazing night sky around San Pedro de Atacama.

Cons: San Pedro gets cold in winter!

10 = Java (Indonesia)

Pros: Beautiful Buddhist and Hindu temples in Yogyakarta. Fabulous kids we met in a local school (we are still in contact with a few of them!).

Cons: It’s VERY poor and quite polluted.

11 = Argentina

Pros: Perito Moreno Glacier, the most spectacular we’ve seen this year. Great variety of landscapes. Cheap, excellent wine across the country. Beautiful Patagonia!

Cons: Horrible security in major urban centers. Violent assaults for thefts are too common. Also a bit of milk-the-tourist attitude around major attractions.

12 = Thailand

Pros: Pleasant across the board and the easiest country to travel to in South-East Asia. Thai food is the best!

Cons: Overrated. We’ve heard so many people rave about Thailand but the country has nothing unique to offer. Thai people have made an industry of the Karen people and are treating animals (elephants in particular) very poorly.

13 = San Francisco (United States)

Pros: Great city, very pedestrian friendly, great and cheap asian food. The walk along the ocean is very pleasant.

Cons: The temperature is never really perfect.

14 = Miami

Pros: Relaxing! Finally feeling “secure” after leaving South America.

Cons: Well, Miami is primarily about the beach. So no excitement here.

15 = Peru

Pros: It is better organized than neighbor Bolivia. Trekking around Huarez?

Cons: Absolutely overpriced in so many respects. Machu Pichu is a bit overrated.

16 = Malaysia

Pros: The twin towers in Kuala Lumpur!

Cons: Restaurants often try to cheat the clients. Taxi drivers as well. Malaysia suffers from being a “transitory” destination: if you are in Malaysia you are either on your way to Singapore or on your way to Thailand.

17 = New Zealand

Pros: Beautiful mountains.

Cons: Overrated as there are no unique attractions or landscapes like Australia. Quite a bit expensive for what it offers.

Bali (Indonesia) = 18

Pros: hmm…maybe Ubud is OK.

Cons: Where do I start? Horribly polluted, drugs, rampant prostitution (“massage, massage, massage”), and constant harassment to buy all kinds of useless trinkets. Contact with the locals is virtually impossible. There are a few million other destinations I would like to go to in my life before I go back to Bali. Avoid.

In Miami for the last days of our trip

Well I will keep things short. We are in Miami for the last days, enjoying the sun and promising us to do as little as possible without getting bored. :)

We are quickly wrapping things up in anticipation for our comeback to Canada. All great things must come to an end and soon it's back to real life in Ottawa. Fortunately for us, friends and family will make our return easier.

We will have a final wrap-up that will include our opinion about all the destinations we saw this year. This should be a fun exercise.

Stay tuned.

Peru Wrap-up

The Great : The second day of our Salkantay Trek. Seeing the towering mountain of Salkantay next to us was a defining moment of our trip to Peru. I wish all the days during our trek brought as much excitement as the moment I stood in front of Salkantay.

The Hidden : Koricancha. We were pleasantly surprised by the mixed architecture coming from the inclusion of the old sun temple into the convent.

The Overrated : The city of Cusco. Please don’t misunderstand us, we did like Cusco. It is just that the city wasn’t as exciting, beautiful, gorgeous – you name the adjective – as we had heard from other travelers and friends. Cusco is nice but don’t expect the moon.

The Ugly : Well, housing in Peru. The Peruvian government seems oblivious to the loophole that allows Peruvians to avoid paying taxes on their (finished) houses. It is never too late to wake up though.

Two set of pictures

You can now view two new set pictures. The first set covers Cusco and the surrounding area, while the second set shows the Salkantay trek and Machu Pichu.

To view the pictures in the correct order, please click on "View My Gallery" under the thumbnails, select the desired album and click on the first picture.

Don't forget: we have two albums for Peru.

Machu Pichu in (my) perspective

Machu Pichu was the last great monument we saw during our trip. A perfect closure to our one year trip - the most famous monument in South America and some of the most famous ruins in the world (Machu Picchu has been voted one of the New Seven Wonders of the World). So after a four day hike we were quite excited to finally see Machu Pichu.

Machu Picchu lies at 2450 meters above sea level, which is lower than Cusco. Although it sits low between two mountains, it is higher than Urubamba River and is often covered with clouds. This is probably the reason why the Spaniards never found it and it remained undisturbed until its "scientific rediscovery" in 1911. And since then Machu Pichu has appeared on the radar of tourist maps from all over the world, and it has been acclaimed as the finest example of the impressive achievement of pre-Colombian cultures.

I have to admit, Machu Pichu has to be one of the most beautifully situated ruins I have ever seen. From above, it looks as if it was carved directly in the mountain, an integral part of the landscape.

Once we started walking between the buildings, we also appreciated the size of the site. Surprisingly we spent a full 9 hours in the ruins and had to leave only because we had to catch a train back to Cusco. It was great walking between the buildings, exploring the site’s hidden corners, and imaging how the place might have been 600 years ago when it was thriving.

Nevertheless, I should put things in perspective. Ever since I started reading about South America, I have had the impression that the Incas were the best masons and that Machu Pichu was the finest display of their art.

It is also worth noting that I had visited a number of Inca ruins in Argentina, Chile, Bolivia and Peru. I loved seeing them but nonetheless, Inca ruins did not appear to be particularly advanced technically or artistically original. After having visited Tiwanaku (see my earlier post), I expected even more sophisticated stonework in Machu Pichu. After all, the Incas were supposed to have brought to perfection the techniques inherited from older cultures. And lets not forget that Tiwanaku was constructed around 700ad (or possibly much earlier). So Machu Pichu was created many centuries after the cities of Egypt, Mesopotamia, or even ancient Greece and Rome. And, contrary to site of Tiwanaku, it has never been touched by the Conquistadors.

Well, as I said, urban planning in Machu Pichu is truly impressive, mostly because it is in total harmony with the surrounding environment. When it comes to Inca masonry, however, I must admit that I was slightly disappointed.

Inca architecture is known for stones carved and fitted so perfectly that they would hold in a wall without any cement. One can see examples of this technique in Machu Pichu. I was disappointed to see that only a handful of buildings are constructed using this method. The vast majority of city constructions are just ordinary buildings with fairly irregular stones held together by mud. Not quite what I had expected after reading about the architectural masterpiece of Machu Pichu.

Moreover, even the buildings proclaimed to be the most sophisticated constructions in Machu Pichu, such as the temple of the sun, were quite underwhelming if not for the walls made of finely fitted stones and the marriage of the structure with the environment. There are no carvings on the stones, no statues, no other form of artistic expression that I had expected from the supposed masters of masonry in the pre-Columbian world.

Maybe I was expecting too much. Maybe the Incas were just more warriors and administrators than artists. And maybe it is unfair to compare different developments of different cultures in different times, using the same aesthetical standards. Or maybe Machu Pichu is just magical for some and not so magical for others.

Well, for myself, I spent a fantastic day on the site of Machu Pichu and I definitely think it is a must-see for anybody interested in pre-Columbian cultures. But I would hardly call Machu Pichu one of the New Seven Wonders of the world. And with regards to artistic values (or the degree of mystery involved, for that matter), I will take the half-destroyed Tiwanaku site over Machu Pichu any time. Tiwanaku is not half as picturesque as Machu Pichu but, in my opinion, it displays a degree of achievement in stone carving and in the scale of its masonry that exceeds that of Machu Pichu.

P.S. I am sorry if I offended the feelings of Machu Pichu lovers. Feel free to disagree!

Salkantay trek - A party trek

Trekking to get to Machu Pichu is increasingly popular. Since slots for the traditional “Inca Trail” are booked months in advance – if not a year in advance – that left us exploring other options. A popular alternative is the Salkantay Trek.

The main attraction in this four day trek is the Salkantay pass, a high altitude pass at 4655 meters that can really test one’s ability to trek a in high altitude environment.

The first day was fairly easy. We started out in Mollepata, a small village in the Sacred Valley. Mollepata is also the place where we realized that we weren’t going to be alone on this trek, as we joined at least three other groups for the start of the trek. After a quick breakfast we were on our way.

The first day was nice but unspectacular. We reached our camp for the night at 3800 meters at the end of the afternoon. Much to our amazement, the camp facilities were permanent with a shelter to protect the tents. There was no doubt in our mind anymore: Salkantay trek is VERY accommodating to beginners.

The second day was by far the most challenging and spectacular. Our first objective was to reach the mountain pass before noon. Now this was challenging. The lack of oxygen gave us all a heck of a challenge, and a few unfortunate had to go back because they felt sick. It was difficult but rewarding, as Salkantay exposed itself in all its glory. What an achievement!

After lunch we descended a staggering 1700 meters, which saw us going from the high and dry altiplano to our camp down in the lush cloud forest. Our camp site had a spectacular view. The second day was definitely the highlight of the trek.

The third day was uninspiring. We trekked for about 6 hours before we took a ride to get to our destination, the village of Santa Teresa. The day was a bit of a letdown as we felt we were cheating by taking a ride. But hey, all tours do the same so no discussion here.

At the end of the day our guide proposed us a deal: an alternate trek for the fourth day since the fourth day is considered a waste of time by many. In fact, the morning trek fourth day goes alongside a road to the hydroelectric station, which is anything but interesting. The afternoon trek is slightly better, as trekkers walk 14 kilometers from the hydro station to Aguas Callientes, at the foot of Machu Pichu. Our guide suggested we skip the walk to the hydroelectric station and climb another mountain where we could see Inca ruins on top and enjoy a top down view on Machu Pichu. The program appealed to all of us and we all agreed to do it. Then my stomach started having problems…

A bit now about our tour operator. The price of our trek was cheap, but so was all the service that came with the trek. We had only one guide, which is nonsense when a group is mountain hiking. Since the likelihood of someone feeling sick or unwell is high when hiking at such altitude, we should have had a guide in front and one behind to close the group. We did not.

Also the food was disappointing. Of course I don’t expect gourmet meal when I hike in the mountains, but I expect 1 – enough food to replace burnt calories 2 – somewhat tasty food. The food served was insufficient and not tasty at all.

But that’s not the worst. The worst is that the tour operator also skipped on proper hygiene. Vegetables were washed with running water and the cook didn’t wash his hands before preparing the meals (I saw him). The result? I was sick twice in four days (as well as a few other hikers), the second time the worst. Before that Ania and I had been almost two months in Bolivia and Peru, and I never had any problems. So let’s just say that I wasn’t too happy (and feeling well).

And then there is the booze. Call me old fashion, but mountain trekking and drinking are two very respectable but different activities. Alcohol - a limited amount of it - can be enjoyable at the end of a tough day in the mountains. But in limited quantities.

The best analogy I can give you is this one: The Salkantay trek is to trekking what Costa del Sol in Spain is to beach goers. Every night there can be a party. There are kiosks selling alcohol all along the way. Even restaurants have loud dance music blaring from speakers. On the third night our campground transformed itself in a huge dance floor.

Ohh that was fun until it was time to go to bed. Of course the few of use who wanted a restful night had to cringe and accept that the majority were still out there partying. Our group was getting up at 5 AM the following day and I had no intention to get hammered the night before.

Also, the trek plans for 4 days of trekking. However, three days would be largely enough to reach Aguas Callientes. There is ground transportation on the first and third day. Only the second day is really punishing.

Luckily for us, our guide proposed an alternate track for the fourth day: climbing a different mountain to get a nice top-down view of Machu Pichu before going back to the main track. The alternate hike was a very nice touch in this otherwise uninteresting fourth day.

The stats for the trek are the following:

Total kilometers walked in four days:74.29 km

Total elevation going up:3043 meters

Total elevation going down: 4081 meters

Would I still recommend the Salkantay trek? Probably. However, if we were to go back to Peru one day, it would definitely be to hike around Huarez in Northern Peru, reputed a world-class destination by experienced hikers.

Here’s my recommendation: if time is short or you are new to hiking, choose Salkantay or any of the treks in the Sacred Valley. Otherwise head for Huarez and start one of those gigantic 12-day trek amidst 6500 meters summits.

Cusco - A mixed bag

A few days ago in another post I claimed how travelers have different opinions about the things they see and do. Case in point, the city of Cusco in Peru.

From friends who had visited Peru before to other travelers we met during this trip, Cusco was supposed to be THE city to see in the Andes. Well we’ve been to Cusco and what is our opinion? It’s nice as long as you don’t venture outside of the city centre.

Plaza de Armas (main square) is definitely the highlight of this otherwise unremarkable town. The Cathedral of Cusco and the Church La Compañía de Jesús are fine examples of colonial architecture. I wish I could comment on the interior of the buildings. I’ll have more on this subject in a minute.

The main square is a very pleasant place to hang out. There are countless cafes, bars, restaurants that can satisfy the needs of every traveler. Cusco gets a lot of money from tourism and the best place to see this money at work is around the main square.

That being said, if the traveler ventures outside the main square the picture changes – radically: houses are in pitiful condition with roofs rotting and plaster coming off the walls. The interior of houses reveal obvious poverty. Cusco is suddenly poor. Very poor.

This realization amazed us quite a bit, considering how much money Peru is getting these days from tourism. We couldn’t help but compare with Sucre, a Bolivian town with little tourism dollars but whose radiance extends kilometers outside of the main square.

So Cusco is nice. It’s also expensive.

I think that I found a new champion this year. If I should grant awards to the different countries we visited, then Peru would definitely get the award called “Milk the Tourist”.

There are a lot of things to see in and around Cusco. From museums containing Inca artifacts to the Sacred Valley, there are many things that Ania and I wanted to see. Not so fast, says the Cusco authorities. To see the main attractions (and many, many minor ones), the traveler has to open his wallet.

I was fine with opening my wallet until I saw how wide it needed to be open: 28 USD to be able to see four average colonial churches (and the ticket does NOT include the main cathedral, which costs a whopping 20 USD alone). Another 28 USD to see a few museums. Another 28 USD to see the Sacred Valley, and another 28 USD to see a few set of minor ruins just outside Cusco (including “sexywoman” as it is called locally). And we were also told that many museums and churches are not included in these tickets, so one has to buy entrance separately.

Wow. Peru sure thinks we are all suckers. Now looking at my guide from 2010, the price for each ticket says 13 USD. Yes, that’s right, Peru has declared prices increases of more than 100%.

Milk, milk, and milk the tourist dry.

After careful research – and consultations with those who had bought the overpriced tickets – Ania and I decided to buy the ticket for the Sacred Valley only because the things that interested us the most were, fortunately for us, not part of the ticket system.

We saw the Inca Museum, Koricancha, and the Church of Santa Catalina. At 4 USD we found the entrance fee to be very reasonable. The Inca Museum and Koricancha were particularly impressive. The Inca Museum is located within the former palace of Admiral Francisco Aldrete Maldonado, hence its common designation as the Palacio del Almirante (Admiral's Palace). The main piece of the museum is the fine collection of Inca mummies, ceramics, textiles, jewelry that come from Pre-Columbian times. The collection was the most impressive we had seen so far.

For its part, Koricancha is special because it was the most impressive temple of the sun in the entire Inca Empire. The Spaniards, after plundering much of the wealth in the temple, decided to build the Church of Santo Domingo directly on top of the Inca structures. The result is impressive: some of the walls of the Church are actual stone walls from the old temple. The four original chambers of the temple are contained within the walls of the Church, which makes the Church a very interesting construction. The mortarless masonry, earthquake-proof trapezoidal doorways, curved retaining wall, and exquisite carving are touted as fine examples of Inca artistic and engineering skills (or is it? Ania will have more on the subject of Inca artistic and engineering skills shortly.) All in all we were extremely pleased with the attractions we saw in Cusco. There were more things to see but the price was not right. Peru is playing a game with which it can easily get burnt.

Peru, be careful. Your ruins are nice, no doubt, but don’t bite the hand that feeds you. Ania and I have seen many nice Inca ruins in Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile. In many cases we’ve paid next to nothing to see them. Of course tourists will pay whatever price Peru throws at them for sites such as Machu Pichu and Koricancha because they are unique.

However, the world economy is headed for another recession and tourists are becoming more and more budget-conscious. If you push your luck too far, Peru, you may wake up one day and find that tourists choose to spend more time in Bolivia than in Peru. After all, Bolivia is every bit as nice as Peru – we actually preferred it over Peru! – for half the money.

It’s okay to make money off tourists. It’s a risky affair to rip them off. Peru, be warned.

Housing in Peru - an unfinished business

In some countries government regulations can create serious hurdles to businesses. The fact that sometimes these new regulations have been proven to produce little or no benefit at all should not surprise the reader. What is surprising is that governments can sometimes sanction regulations that produce unintended – an in this case ugly – consequences.

Let me use the housing sector in Peru as an example.

We’ve always known that Peru is richer than Bolivia. Since most towns in Bolivia suffer from a chronic lack of funds (read: are ugly), we expected Peru to have cleaner and more beautiful towns. It actually was the contrary.

We arrived in Peru from Copacabana in Bolivia. As soon as we crossed into Peru there was a familiar if repetitive sight all across the country side: half finished houses with poles dangling left, right, front and centre. Bricks are laid randomly on top of houses and construction material is displayed near the property. These houses look unfinished but they are not: people are actually living in these residences.

Welcome to the Unfinished Houses of Peru. The culprit? An idiotic government tax levied only when the construction of the new house is finished. Of course most Peruvians build the house and pay careful attention to leave poles, red bricks, cement lying around to make sure that bureaucrats see that… work is in progress.

The result? Ugly towns with half finished houses.

This should be mentioned in every classroom that discusses bad government regulations.

New pictures uploaded

I've uploaded the pictures of La Paz, Tiwanaku, and Copacabana.

Hope you enjoy.

To view the pictures in the correct order, please click on "View My Gallery" under the thumbnails, select the desired album and click on the first picture.

Amazon and Western Bolivia Wrap-up

The Great : Torotoro National Park. Torotoro is great for many reasons, among which paleontology and great trekking particularly stand out.

The Hidden : Cochabamba. Ania and I really didn’t expect much from Cochabamba after hearing a fair number of negative opinions about the city. What can I say: the skeptics were wrong! It has a great vibe and many nice cafes. Don’t miss out on Cochabamba. Also a special mention to Tiwanaku, a topic extensively covered by Ania. Don’t think that Machu Pichu is all there is to Pre-Columbian civilizations. Tiwanaku surprised us more than we thought and the more we read about the subject, the more we believe that the site is actually a DO-NOT-MISS attraction. Really.

The Overrated : Copacabana. The town is supposed to be uniquely pleasant, but it lacks real charm and the main attraction, the lake, is seen from beaches covered with trash. As I said in a previous post, the only reason to come to Copacabana is to visit Isla del Sol, which has more to offer in practically every respect. Copacabana is overhyped.

The Ugly : The “incident” involving one overly excited Mashaquipe manager in the Amazon. To make a long story short, we paid for two nights in a private room. However, a possible activity on the second night was to camp out deep in the jungle. On the morning of the second day, the manager told us that we had to evacuate the room and put our stuff in a storage room because we were going to camp that night. Well, I objected that I had been ill for a week and that I wasn’t going to go out camping if it rains heavily, which is a real possibility in the jungle. So I wanted to keep the room. The guy got furious. He told the two other tourists who were waiting to take our room that they had to go to a dorm instead and that it was our fault. The two clueless tourists, not really understanding what was going on (overbooking the rooms), got angry at us as well. Since I paid much more money for a private room, I wasn’t ready to let go the room for nothing. I tried to approach the manager and cut a deal with him (you refund me half and I’ll put my stuff in the dorm), but he refused to have any word with me. Well, in the end we did start walking in the jungle to our camping destination. 30 minutes after our departure, it started to rain heavily. We walked some more but eventually decided to go back to the camp. Thank God we kept the room because we were totally drenched. When we went back to the office in Rurenabaque, I asked to speak to a supervisor (who was extremely apologetic) and had only one recommendation: fire the Neanderthal who does not know how to speak to his customers.

Other Observation : Well we’ve had quite a change of schedule in South America. Our initial plan was to spend maybe ten days in Bolivia, followed by a month and a half in Peru. Ania and I enjoyed Bolivia so much that we’ve made inverse proposition: we’ve spent a month and a half in Bolivia and plan to spend about 12 days in Peru.

When we planned our trip a year ago, Ania and I had decided that ten days in Bolivia was enough. After all, everybody only talks about Peru. Even our travel agent surprised us when she gave us her appreciation of Bolivia “why do you want to go to Bolivia?”. We can now safely say: we disagree.

When you plan your own around-the-world trip, make sure wait until you are on the ground to decide on your schedule. Not everyone agrees on the must-see's and must-do's.

Isla del Sol - The best part of Copacabana

There are two possibilities to visit Lake Titicaca, the famous birthplace of Inca culture. Copacabana, on the Bolivian side of the lake, or Puno on the Peruvian side. Ania and I chose Copacabana mainly because it has direct access to the lake whereas Puno is in a bay.

There is no denying that Copacabana is highly touristic and a bit bland. The town is fairly small and Ania and I needed no more than a day to see it all. We chose to spend our second day on the Island of Isla del Sol.

We reached the northern part of Isla del Sol by boat by noon. There are Inca ruins scattered all over the island and a nice trek that covers it all, from north to south of the island. With a background of snow-capped mountains and great 360 degree views on the lake, Ania and I fell under the charm of Isla del Sol. Mind you, the island isn’t the most beautiful I’ve seen. But the great views and a nice trek made Isla del Sol the best story of our journey in uninspiring Copacabana.

Tiwanaku - the South American Stonehenge

About 71km from La Paz, on a plain close to Lake Titicaca, lie some of the most mysterious and interesting ruins I have seen during this trip. The ruins attest to the presence of a highly developed pre-Inca civilization that lived in the Bolivian Altiplano. All scholars agree on this. However, little agreement has been reached regarding many other particulars regarding this civilization.

When the Incas first stumbled upon the city of Tiwanaku (it was already abandoned by then), they decided that their gods, born in a nearby Lake Titicaca, created this place. According to the legend, the Gods were dissatisfied with their creation so they destroyed it and created the Inca civilization instead.

When the Spaniards first discovered the city, they concluded that it was an abandoned pilgrimage site of some old civilization. They simply couldn't believe that a city could exist in such a dry, cold climate over 3900 meters above sea level. They destroyed most of the ruins because, well, the Spaniards believed that pagan worshiping had no place in a Christian universe. The finely carved stone blocks were removed from the ancient constructions and used to build a local church and houses, and some of the stones even found their way in the cathedral of La Paz. Most of the artistically appealing artifacts were looted over the centuries.

In late 19th and 20th century serious archeological research began but it brought more questions than answers. The carbon dating of organic remains found on the stones suggests that the main structures were built around 1500 years ago. This is the leading theory regarding Tiwanaku today (supported by so-called “orthodox” archeologists). However, several archaeologists (“romantic” archeologists) argue that carbon dating may not be a determining argument. One of the monuments, the gate of the sun, has a kind of astronomical calendar carved on it. By deciphering the symbols of the calendar, some astronomers concluded that it reflected the astronomical conditions of over 12000 years ago! This would make the Tiwanaku civilization the oldest in the world.

There is also no agreement as to the reasons for the sudden collapse of the civilization. The "orthodox" archaeologists believe that a drought happened sometimes around 1000 ad, which caused food shortages and, consequently, the collapse of the civilization. The "romantic" archaeologists claim that it was a massive flood, the description of which appears in many traditions (recall Noah's Arc). The two main arguments supporting this theory are the findings of fossilized marine life all over the area, and the fact that about 90% of Tiwanaku ruins still remain about two meters underground waiting to be excavated.

While the orthodox archaeologists still argue with the romantics, Bolivia adopted a happy mix of both theories, which is interesting, if quite incoherent. The Tiwanaku people are thus proclaimed as the fathers of the Inca, which gives Bolivia a strategic advantage over Peru. Thousands of school kids are brought to visit the site every day. Guides give explanations about the history and symbols of Tiwanaku as if their meaning had been proven beyond a doubt. Surprisingly, among the crowds of Bolivian groups I could only spot a handful of international tourists. For some reason, the great mystery of Tiwanaku civilization evokes much less interest than Nazka or Stonehenge.

The reason for this lack of international interest might be the fact that the site of Tiwanaku was first partially destroyed by zealous Conquistadors and then progressively looted for hundreds of years. Nowadays, one needs some imagination to appreciate the size of the ancient city. But I must admit that even in the present state, the ruins impressed me more than any Inca site I have seen in Argentina, Chile or Bolivia.

Some walls of the former temples remain intact and are a visible proof that Tiwanaku masonry was at least as advanced as that of the Incas. Huge stones are shaped in perfect squares and fitted using iron keys. They are placed so tight, that in some places it is impossible to fit a match between two stones. One temple is adorned with carvings of dozens of heads, each different from the others. There are several giant humanoid monuments, also richly adorned in carvings, the meaning of which has been lost. And, finally, there is the gate of the Sun, on which the astronomical calendar was carved. While there are arguments about the interpretation of it, none disputes its aesthetical value.

Most archaeologists agree that the Tiwanaku civilization flourished between 700ad and 1000ad, that its power extended over Lake Titicaca and in its immediate region, and in parts of Bolivia, Peru and Chile. It was a hierarchical society with a religious and political centre in the city of Tiwanaku, inhabited by between 50,000 and 250,000 people. Tiwanaku possessed a very advanced knowledge of astronomy and descriptive geometry. They practiced very ingenious and efficient agriculture techniques, and they produced beautiful ceramics, sculptures and stone carvings.

Beware, Peru! Inca constructions in the Sacred Valley will not impress me easily now that I have seen what the Pre-Inca Tiwanaku civilization was able to accomplish!

Trip Monthly Update

September 9 2011 – October 8, 2011

Summary of the eleventh month of our trip

Number of countries visited: 1 (we love Bolivia too much to leave it!)

Number of flights taken: 2

Number of posts added to our blog: 16

Number of marital conflicts: 0

Best overnight stay: Surprisingly, it would be our hotel (El Molino) in Torotoro. Torotoro is a small village far away from cities and not too may tourists venture there. However, an entrepreneur from Cochabamba decided to build a luxury accommodation there. The hotel looks like a rich ranch building situated in a huge garden. As we were the only guests there, we had the whole place to ourselves. After the day's trek we relaxed with a drink in a leather sofa in the living room, played a game of billiard or two, and in the evening we watched DVD's a huge screen. This may not sound as the ultimate luxury to some of you but keep in mind that this place is in the middle of nowhere and costs as much as a simple hostel in Chile.

Worst overnight stay: Ironically, the worst place we stayed was also in Torotoro, on our first night before we found El Molino I described above. This place is also probably the worst we stayed in during the whole trip, it beats even the horrible, horrible hostel in Singapore. It also explains why we loved the later hotel that much :-)

We arrived in Torotoro about 1am and didn't know where to look for a place to sleep. We asked the lady who worked at the bus office and she pointed to her own "hotel". She was quite impolite but it was late at night, we were tired, and I had stomach problems so we just took it without checking the room.

The room in itself was not the worst I have ever seen. The floor was not too disgusting, and I didn't notice any bugs. In terms of furniture there were only two beds and imagine my disgust when I saw that the bed sheets were still dirty! We tried other rooms but they were all locked. The lady who gave us the key also disappeared in the meantime. So we decided to stay there for one night, sleeping in our clothes answer trying not to touch anything.

When I went to the bathroom, I had another surprise. It didn't surprise me that it was VERY dirty - I kind of expected it after seeing the room. I didn't surprise me that the toilets didn't flush - it happens quite often in Bolivia. What surprised me was that there was no water AT ALL. Not running water in the sink and not even some water in a barrel, which is a common practice in places that have problems with running water. Can somebody tell me the point of a bathroom with showers (!) when there is no water at all?

We survived the night and got out of that place as early as possible in the morning. When we returned our key, the lady was VERY surprised and asked us why we were leaving so soon :-)

Best Call we made: We made quite a few good decisions this month :-) I'm very happy that we found time to visit Torotoro and the Amazon, for that matter. But the best last minute call was probably to spend some time in Cochabamba. A lot of people told us that there was absolutely nothing there to see and most guidebook advise travelers not to spend more time than necessary in the city. However, I found it to be a perfect place to unwind, with its pleasant climate, smiling people (I find it rare in Bolivia) and tons of nice cafes and restaurants. As a matter if fact, I liked it much more than La Paz.

Worst Call we made: Certainly going to Torotoro with the public bus. See Marc’s post for more detals. Phew, Torotoro sure made an impression on us!